Dear Sunday readers,
Many years ago, I found this book, ART DECO JEWELRY by SYLVIE RAULET in an old book store in Montreal.
The book provides essentials to anyone interested in the ART DECO period or in superb examples of the jeweler’s art.
As the author’s says “A piece of jewellery is the symbolic object par excellence, appreciated as much for its aesthetic qualities as for its intrinsic value”
Art Deco was a pastiche of many different styles, sometimes contradictory, united by a desire to be modern. From its outset, Art Deco was influenced by the bold geometric forms of Cubism; the bright colors of Fauvism and of the Ballets Russes; and the updated craftsmanship of the furniture of the eras of Louis Philippe and Louis XVI; by the exotic styles of China and Japan, India, Persia, ancient Egypt and Maya art. It featured rare and expensive materials such as ebony and ivory and exquisite craftsmanship. (Wikipedia)
Ones of the many masters of ART DECO are, GEORGES FOUQUET, LOUIS CARTIER, LOUIS ARPLES, RAYMOND TEMPLIER, JEAN FOUQUET, and French houses of jewellery like BOUCHEROND and LALIQUE.
Many of the creations of the Haute Joaillerie remain unidentified, like the one we can appreciate in this photo.
Anonymous: diamond bracelet with ruby cabochons, mounted on platinum. Sotheby’s Geneva
This Boucheron’s brooch in sculpted lapis, jade, black enamel and engraved citrine, c 1925, signed. Primavera Gallery, New York, it’s one of the great pieces from the French jewellery house in Paris.
The name Lalique evokes the brilliance of jewellery, the wonder of transparency, and the brilliance of crystal. Before it became a brand name, it was the name of a man, an artist of genius, René-Jules Lalique and of his heirs who shared his creative flame.
Lalique necklace in glass and gold. Scarabs composed of moulded blue glass plaques alternate with plaques bearing a design of branches, mounted in gold, c 1925. Sotheby’s Monte Carlo
The most important steps in Cartier's family business were made over several generations by the goldsmith Louis Francois Cartier, his son Alfred Cartier, and his three grandsons, Pierre, Jacque and Louis Cartier.
Throughout the First World War Cartier continued to produce inventive and original designs. Cartier introduced many innovations into the jewellery market. Primarily known for their work with diamonds, the firm designed lavish pieces, often incorporating other stones in new and unusual settings for contrast and colour.
These three pieces of incredible jewellery, show the magic and incredible work of Cartier’s family.
Cartier: pendant watch in onyx, round diamonds, turquoise and black enamel. Christie’s Geneva.
Cartier: sautoir and tassel pendant in jade, pearls and black onyx, signed. Christie’s Genova.
Cartier: diamond and ruby necklace, mounted on platinum, signed. Christie’s New York.
French jewelry manufacturer GEORGES FOUQUET, considered both master of Art Nouveau and master jeweler in Paris, he joined his father in the family business in 1891 and opens in 1900 a new Bijouterie Fouquet at 6 rue Royale in Paris.
Contrary to Lalique, Georges Fouquet expressed himself through more synthetic geometric forms.
There are so many master pieces from Georges Fouquet but one of the greatest pieces are these pendant earrings in moonstone, sapphires, diamonds, and blue enamel, c 1925. Private Collection.
Another incredible piece from the master is this pendant in grey gold, black lacquer, and brilliant-cut diamonds, blackened silver cord, signed. H. 10 cm, W. 5 cm. N. Manoukian Collection.
I can’t stop myself showing his incredible original pieces, Monsieur Fouquet is one of the greatest master of Art Deco!
This pendant designed by Andre Leveille in frosted crystal set with onyx and calibre coloured stones, 1925. Private Collection, it’s Fouquet at his best!
I can keep going for ever in the incredible work and master ship of the great masters of Art deco, but before I leave you today I must showcase a piece from Raymond Templier, platinum and diamond brooch, 1930, signed. L. 4.6 cm, W. 3.7 cm. Private Collection
And the one and only Van Cleef & Arpels, vanity case in gold and mauve jade with floral motifs in rubies, emeralds and rose-cut diamonds, edged with green and black enamel, 1926. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives.
I hope you enjoy our trip through ART DECO today as much as I did.
Have a nice Sunday!